A week ago this morning I was talking with Richard Salzman about the Balloon Track. The conversation produced this gem which I couldn’t get out of my head all day today.
“Your friend Brian Morrissey is a nice guy. But make no mistake, he’d be very happy if he could turn make US 101 look like the I-5 Corridor from San Francisco to the Oregon border. And he’d crucify kitchens on church doors!”
Okay. I made the last part up. But the king of hyperbole’s point resonated loud and clear during my last 24 hours in Medford. But for the immediate presence of gorgeous hills, it looks like Redding, Chico, Oroville, and Yuba City. Sprawl thrown out seemingly without care, as if aesthetics were completely irrelevant and nobody ever heard of civil engineering. Locally owned businesses far and few, hidden off the main drags where a solid wall of corporate logos lines each side of every major artery, which is pretty much every street within a few blocks of the freeway. I’d been there many times before, but I’m looking at these places in a different light now. I may not be just passing through them. If you believe Salzman, I could end up living in one.
These towns and cities didn’t start this way. The courthouse areas of town are usually the older areas, where the architecture retains some character. Medford is no exception. The courthouse, built in 1910, is pretty. Across the street is the old library in a beautiful golden brick building built in 1911 with glass in the windows bearing that distortion from age surrounded by gorgeous wooden frames. It was set in a park of sorts, beneath old and twisting oak trees. Unfortunately, it’s boarded up, the library having been moved to a more modern (and probably more safe) concrete and glass setting downtown (the “downtown” being curiously empty on a weekday – I had no problems finding parking anywhere. Is the economy in trouble there?).
But as you’re standing by the library and looking over to the courthouse, if you look to the left you’ll see two very drab and gloomy concrete boxes – the justice center and the county prison. Not just ugly like in Eureka, but dreary, almost as if the designers wanted to put defendants in a mood as they approach. Maybe the facade should bear the Dante quote – “Abandon hope all ye who enter here.” (My masthead motto is a play on that, by the way, for those who were wondering).
Again odd, nobody came in or out of any of the buildings while I was there, about 20 minutes before my depo started a block away. Not one person. I felt like I was in one of those old last-man-on-Earth movies, but for the cars and bicyclists driving by. This was about 12:30!
….
The trip up was a minor adventure in yesterday’s weather. I needed gas at Crescent City. My gas card is for Shell, and apparently there’s no such gas station in Del Norte County. I got distracted driving by Home Depot and trying to imagine it on the waterfront in Eureka and all of the sudden I was out of town. I figured there must be a gas station at 199 and sure enough there was a blue sign reading “gas, food, and lodging.” Made me happy, because I didn’t want to double back as I was hoping to reach the Collier Tunnel before it got dark and weather was nasty. But alas, the sign lied. It led me around a loop to another street with the same sign pointing left. I drove by a motel with all the windows dark and a tanning salon. No lodging, no food, and more to the point, no gas. And no indication there had ever been gas. Right after that was 199, about a hundred yards from where I turned off it. I tried the other side, but gave up quickly deciding to head back into town. I had no idea there was a station just a few miles up the road, which I figured there probably was but after the blue signs lied to me I didn’t want to take any chances on losing more time.
….
I stayed at the Best Western on Barnett Street. A nice place, the experience only being slightly marred by the presence of two tour buses with their generators running all night. The hotel folk were mum about whom they were, saying only that it was “a performing arts group.” One look at the roadies loading up the next morning made very inadequate the description “a performing arts group.”
As usual I imbibed in my cable TV fix. There was Bill O’Reilly ranting about the fact that while WalMart and most of the other major retailers are going to be saying “Merry Christmas” this year, some outfit called “Best Buy” will be saying “Happy holidays.” Bill took that as an affront.
Jon Stewart chimed it with some of his blue state elitism many of us love in response to the president talking about his relationship with Harry Reid. Apparently they’re both from western states and they’re both “plain talking” prompting Stewart to comment that the president was making much of the fact that they both shared a time zone (are Nevada and Texas in the same time zone?) and speak English. I flipped the channel while he was interviewing some boring actress.
AMC was showing Jaws which I hadn’t seen in years. I noticed for the first time that the actor playing “Quint” was also the guy who played the gangster who was played in The Sting. And also he was one of the spooks in Three Days of the Condor. Versatile actor. Who is he?
Does Nancy Grace talk about anything other than rape and murder? And is her face capable of any expression other than a scowl?
And so on. I go through the exercise just to be sure I haven’t changed my mind about cable.
….
I want to like Medford. I like Ashland and Jacksonville. But that’s probably where the local rich folk live, kind of like Trinidad and increasingly Arcata. But the first thing that hits you as you drive in from the north is some huge gaudy building on the side of a hill east of the freeway. What is that thing anyway, and why was it built? It’s totally out of place, almost like somebody wanted some sort of permanent memorial along the lines of ancient pyramids or the Tower of Babel.
….
Alright. I’ve got the elitist snark out of my system for the night. My deposition went very well anyway. And I had a great meal at a mini-chain called the Black Bear restaurant right next to the hotel. The portions are huge, so I got breakfast out of it too.
….
On the trip back I saw two or three “Get us out” signs much like the one I’ve been reading for years in Ukiah. It’s a Bircher sign of course. Details here. Ever read the Blue Book? A fascinating read. Welch thought that Soviet military prowess was a myth and that the arms race was a communist plot to destroy our economy. I guess by some estimates that one backfired.
And the fruit police were closed up. What gives? California not worried about the med-fly anymore?
And a warning to men using the restroom at the Collier Tunnel rest stop. The ADA handrail at the rear keeps the toilet seat cover from standing up properly, worse than when you have those fuzzy things on them. To quote a comedian I can’t remember, “a simple biological function became a major feat of engineering.”
….
No, Home Depot doesn’t look like it belongs in Crescent City. But honestly, I’m more turned off by the casino at the Klammath River.
….
G’nite.

35 comments
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November 15, 2006 at 12:42 pm
Anonymous
Oh no, you ate at one of the 5 or 7 Black Bear Diners? A mini chain? That means it must be one of those dreaded CORPORATIONS. Oh my, lions and tigers and bears!
Wasn’t there a locally owned restaurant you could have eaten at? Shame on you Eric, supporting a corporation.
And “Richard Salzman said” …….. sorry Eric but I don’t give a shit what Richard Salzman said! I know the I-5 corridor between Redding and the Oregon border is beautiful. From the Grapevine north to Red Bluff it is mostly flat farm land and there isn’t much you can do to spruce that up.
But you know Eric, I’ll bet it’s somewhat easier finding a Shell gas station on I-5 !?
Why do you put any stock in what Richard Salzman says? Salsman is an elistist, at least in his mind. He’s an AH in my mind. Remember the “Web of Lies” ? The guy has some “issues”. One of the main issues is his credibility.
November 15, 2006 at 3:03 pm
Fred
“And the fruit police were closed up”.
Whatever happened to those guys? Seems to me they used to have an agricultural inspection station down around the Mendocino County line.
Haven’t seen one of them in years.
November 15, 2006 at 3:48 pm
Anonymous
The should have a weed inspection station at the mendo county line! And for any retard out there I don’t mean crab grass.
November 15, 2006 at 3:53 pm
Anonymous
Nice piece on the I-5 corridor Eric? Kind of a down hone, folksy way of supporting your new buddy Larry Glass. Yeah Yeah, talking subtle crap about the Home Depot in Cresent City and all about the housing in Medford and I-5 and all.
Nice try, but no cigar.
November 15, 2006 at 5:06 pm
Anonymous
4:42 is an idiot
You have no clue what attracts people to the North Coast
November 15, 2006 at 5:15 pm
Eric V. Kirk
I know the I-5 corridor between Redding and the Oregon border is beautiful.
Agreed.
From the Grapevine north to Red Bluff it is mostly flat farm land and there isn’t much you can do to spruce that up.
Disagree. Tje tpwm pf Sutter is gorgeous. In any case, I’m not talking about “sprucing up.” I’m talking about sprawl. They have the room.
And Salzman’s comment was hyperbole as to what Morrissey wants to see, and the comparison is probably unfair as to what the Balloon Track development would look like even with the big box.
But Medford and some other valley towns were planned badly, if at all, mostly because the communities rubber stamped the developments. My broader point, which seems to have been lost, was about the importance of public process.
But you know Eric, I’ll bet it’s somewhat easier finding a Shell gas station on I-5 !?
Undoubtably. It’s not enough to make me want to move there.
Why do you put any stock in what Richard Salzman says? Salsman is an elistist, at least in his mind. He’s an AH in my mind. Remember the “Web of Lies” ? The guy has some “issues”. One of the main issues is his credibility.
I remember it well. But it’s beside the point here.
Nice piece on the I-5 corridor Eric? Kind of a down hone, folksy way of supporting your new buddy Larry Glass. Yeah Yeah, talking subtle crap about the Home Depot in Cresent City and all about the housing in Medford and I-5 and all.
Nice try, but no cigar.
??????
November 15, 2006 at 5:58 pm
Anonymous
Well, my take on the Medford/Eureka comparison.
Medford is a typical 1-5 town. Redding, Modesto, Chico…yes, they all look about the same and have the same corporate commercial culture. But what they don’t have are hippies. Ok, sorry for the stab, but it’s true. You are talking conservative towns where industry, retail and services economy are the rule. Ashland is basically Arcata. Where is the university in Southern Oregon?
Jacksonville is basically Trinidad/Ferndale. The cute little liberal retail shops and all.
But realize that Medford is the industrial and commercial hub of southern Oregon. Chico is the hub of that area of California. Redding is the hub of the north state. They represent industry and commerce. And with that comes a lifestyle choice. I believe the greater population wants the corporate chain stores and the big boxes and the convenience of the Home Depots. And of course, they have the population to support it. Why? BECAUSE THEY HAVE JOBS TO SUPPORT THAT LIFESTYLE! Sorry to shout.
Eureka is not Medford no matter how Richard Salzman/Larry Glass/Larry Evans/Cinthia Elkins wants to skew it. Oh, that’s right, none of them actually live in Eureka.
Eureka does not have the industrial base to become a Medford. 101 is not 1-5. If Eureka were capable of being a Santa Rosa or a Medford, it would have become that by now. If you are afraid that Eureka is turning into the place you left to come here, you are sadly mistaken. Your liberal politics sometimes really overshadow your take on reality.
Eureka is more apt to become Coos Bay than Medford.
Oh, and by the way….that monolith upon the hill above Medford I believe is a senior residence. But don’t quote me. Or is it a hospital?
November 15, 2006 at 6:13 pm
Eric V. Kirk
But what they don’t have are hippies.
Not true. I saw plenty of evidence of them. I’m sure however they are many more in Ashland.
Oh, and by the way….that monolith upon the hill above Medford I believe is a senior residence. But don’t quote me. Or is it a hospital?
Well, that’s a bit better than what it looks like from the distance, which is apartments. But I’d still have preferred that it was built down on the flat.
Eureka is more apt to become Coos Bay than Medford.
I could probably live with Coose Bay although I’d much prefer Yahatz.
November 15, 2006 at 6:14 pm
Carol Ann
Eric, I think you were in Medford around the same time we were in Ashland. Ashland is a wonderful town. It was sad to me to see the new Home Depot being built just north of Ashland on I-5. It is sad to see the picturesque oak hillside turn into Home Depot. It is hard to imagine a Home Depot on Humboldt Bay especially on a wetland.
November 15, 2006 at 6:27 pm
Anonymous
“Not true. I saw plenty of evidence of them. I’m sure however they are many more in Ashland.”
Signs of hippies.
Ashland, Yes. Medford, No.
Garberville, yes. Fortuna, No.
Arcata, yes. Eureka….oh, here and there. And becoming more evident everyday.
Someday your Utopia will be completed.
November 15, 2006 at 6:46 pm
Carol Ann
What exactly is a “hippy”?
November 15, 2006 at 7:05 pm
Eric V. Kirk
Signs of hippies.
Ashland, Yes. Medford, No.
Garberville, yes. Fortuna, No.
Hate to break this to you, but there are hippies in Fortuna, and there will be more coming.
And in Medford, I saw an office for Salmonwatch, and a rustic looking coffee house a couple of doors down – both on 6th Street. It didn’t have a color chalkboard menu, but the food list betrayed its true nature. And most importantly, there was a store called “Harvest Natural Foods” that sold organic produce. And then some of the free literature at the library also betrayed a subtle presence.
We are everywhere.
Just remember, the bohemians represent the first stage of gentrification, for better or worse.
November 15, 2006 at 9:00 pm
Anonymous
When the first round of hippies/back-to-landers/social activists came to Humboldt County from the Bay Area in the very late ’60′s and more so in the early ’70′s, for most arriving in Western Trinity county at least, it was to escape Haight Ashbury and that entire scene. Around that same time, George Harrison’s visit to the Haight proved to be very disconcerting. Instead of a groovy art and music scene and alternate living, he found nothing but a scene riddled with drugs and debauchery.
Carol Ann, This is from Wikipedia….Does this ring a bell?
Hippie, occasionally spelled hippy, refers to a subgroup of the 1960s counterculture that began in the United States, becoming an established social group by 1965 before declining in the 1970s. [1] Hippies, along with the New Left and the civil rights movement, are considered the three dissenting groups of the 1960s counterculture movement. [2]
Hippies were part of a youth movement, composed mostly of white teenagers and young adults between the ages of 15 and 25 years-old. [3] [4] Inheriting a tradition of cultural dissent from the bohemians and the beatniks, hippies rebelled against established institutions, criticised middle class values, opposed the Vietnam War, embraced aspects of non-Judeo-Christian religions, promoted sexual liberation, and created intentional communities, leading some to describe hippies as a new religious movement. [5] Hippies were against “political and social orthodoxy”, choosing a “gentle and nondoctrinaire” politics that favoured “peace, love, and personal freedom.” [6]. [7]
Hippies perceived the dominant culture as a corrupt, monolithic entity that exercised undue power over their lives. [8] They often called this culture “The Establishment,” “Big Brother,” or “The Man.” [9] Hippie opposition to the Establishment spread around the world through a fusion of early rock, folk, blues and psychedelic rock, with the dramatic arts and the visual arts in tow.
The 21st century has brought with it a neo-hippie movement, with an ethos similar to that of the original hippies.
November 15, 2006 at 9:07 pm
Anonymous
“We are everywhere.”
Eric, at least you admit it and don’t see the term “hippie” as a derogatory term. Or, do you?
But then, I do have “redneck” leanings myself. And am proud to be a part of the “Okie” heritage.
Be proud of your social heritage…because it is a rare few who have any sort of ethnic heritage they can relate to. That is, without stealing another ethnic groups’ heritage and claiming it as their own.
November 15, 2006 at 9:09 pm
Anonymous
When Brian Morrissey’s architects made their presentation to the Eureka City Council, they bragged that they are famous for designing developments all along the I-5 corridor.
That’s their hyperbole.
That’s their “claim to fame”
Watch this Home Depot investigation by ch 4 in LA:
http://www.nbc4.tv/investigations/index.html
and then come back here and tell me you want a Home Depot in our town.
Let Fortuna be Medford and let Eureka keep the “Victorian Seaport Village” charm of local businesses and not become all corporate chains.
There are so many small businesses that will be hurt my a Home Depot. Arkley wants you to believe it is only Pierson’s, but every flooring store, appliance store, and all the contractors including roofers.
November 15, 2006 at 9:46 pm
Hank Sims
Portland is the greatest city in the country in almost every way, but whole entire rest of Oregon is a no-go hellhole, without exception.
Just one guy’s opinion!
November 15, 2006 at 9:58 pm
Brian Morrissey
Well, at least I am a nice guy.
Definitely a step or two up from the “fat, ugly and retarded” comments a few months ago.
November 15, 2006 at 10:06 pm
Eric V. Kirk
Hank – even the coast? It’s more crowded than it used to be, but it’s still pretty.
I could probably also live in Eugene if I had to live in Oregon outside of Portland.
I do really like Portland, which is supposed the last affordable urban area on the west coast, and the new haven for bohemians. And for kids the Bay Area has nothing like the OMSI, not even the Exploratorium quite stands up to it.
Brian – I remember those posts. There were some other real bizarre posts about R. Arkley as well – well beyond any sense of decency.
November 15, 2006 at 10:09 pm
Eric V. Kirk
Eric, at least you admit it and don’t see the term “hippie” as a derogatory term. Or, do you?
I don’t see it as derogatory, though I’m not quite sure I fit the mold. I’m not sure what mold I would fit. But I suppose I would be closer to “hippie” than “redneck.” We have a few hybrids around here as well.
November 15, 2006 at 10:12 pm
Eric V. Kirk
The 21st century has brought with it a neo-hippie movement, with an ethos similar to that of the original hippies.
Except that the younger “neo-hippies” watch the old Woodstock documentary wondering when they’re going to hear some Reggae. I’m not sure the term was even in wide usage at the time. The original soundtrack albums for The Harder They Come used some weird term like “neo-callypso” or something I can’t quite remember.
November 15, 2006 at 10:59 pm
Anonymous
Hank said…..but whole entire rest of Oregon is a no-go hellhole, without exception.”
Wow, I kind of like Oregon.
If I have to move due to LOSS OF JOBS, I will more than likely head north. The rest of California seems like a no-go hellhole to me.
Does anyone remember the bumper stickers on Oregon cars that said “Don’t Californicate Oregon”
November 15, 2006 at 11:56 pm
Carol Ann
Ashland is certainly a beautiful well-planned town. Lots of fabulous vistas, hiking trails, theater, art, and great restaurants. The fall foliage was at its peak. I don’t know if I saw any “hippies” or “hippys”. Lots of people riding mountain bikes, walking and riding horses.
Hank, I think calling Oregon a “hell-hole” with the execpetion of Portland is a bit harsh. The Illinois valley on 199 near Cave Junction is beautiful. We drove out to the Caves and then up a forest service road until we hit snow. Awesome country. The Smith River is still a wild river and is breathtaking. I have not been up to Bend in several years. I remember it being lovely with the mountains and the Deshutes River. I understand that it has grown rather quickly like everywhere else.
However, I see the orange glow of Home Depot sprouting up like mushrooms in the forest after a winter’s rain. They are like the golden arches of McDonald’s, to me –representing the unrelenting homoginization of America. How sad.
November 16, 2006 at 12:40 am
Hank Sims
There’s a lot of Oregeon that’s pretty, that’s true. Crater Lake, Astoria, even Klamath Falls. My favorite is place in the country for sheer beauty is the Columbia River Gorge, which is truly breathtaking.
But Oregon is wasted on the Oregonians — the biggest collection of hicks in the Pacific Northwest.
Ashland? Wine and cheese washups. Bandon? A more appalling Mendocino. Eugene? A strangely ugly downtown, surrounded on all sides by strip mall hell. Davis is a much nicer city than Eugene.
Last time we were up we spent the night in Reedsport, at the mouth of the Umpqua. It was one of the weirdest places I’ve ever spent the night in my life. The downtown was boarded up like a Baltimore slum, completely vacant and rotting. What was left of the town had completely vacated the center, spreading out along Highway 1.
They’d put in some sort of failed redevelopment project on the banks of the river — almost entirely empty but for one good Mexican restaurant. You sat out on the patio and watched the gravel barges move up and down the river as the sun set. It was gorgeous and haunting, like we’d suddenly been transplanted to the deep South. Horrible squalor — dark, dark beauty.
You wouldn’t want to live there!
November 16, 2006 at 1:18 am
Anonymous
I pretty much agree Hank. A good chunk of Oregon, with the exception of Portland and a couple of other small towns, pretty much sucks.
As an employee of a Coos Bay based company, I can tell you that it’s a lot like your description of Reedsport. The Original dowtown is a vacant hole that you really would’nt want to be caught in after dark. Good food is a rare bird, and not to much in the way of decent places to stay. Unemployment is pretty heavy. Those that do have work are typically under employed. With the downsizing of the timber industry, a lot of the Oregon coastal towns have become somewhat depressed. It seems that towns like Coos Bay and North Bend are trying to figure out where to go next. I’m not sure what the current status is, but that particular area has been flirting with LNG as of late. Big Box and indian casinos have been cropping up as well over the last few years.
Not a place I would want to settle in.
November 16, 2006 at 2:03 am
Anonymous
What they need is a Rob Arkley!
November 16, 2006 at 3:33 am
Carol Ann
I will defend Ashland. There was some foresight and artistic talent back in the late 1800′s with the beginning of the Shakespeare Festival. It is way more than ‘wine and cheese wash-ups’, Asland is internationally known for it’s Shakespeare Festival and it’s tremendous location. However, I wouldn’t want to live there. It is an easy drive depending on weather and roads from Humboldt.
I will agree that on 199 we passed alot of yards with piles of scrap metal and old mobile homes. It is a mixed-bag. Haven’t been down the Oregon Coast for a long time.
November 16, 2006 at 4:13 am
Cygnus
Californians badmouthing Oregon?!
Having lived in California I have to say… that is like the pigs complaining from the shit about the beautiful farm house just up the hill.
No offense to all of you suckers stuck in Plastifornia, of course.
By the way… nice governor, morons. 8^>
November 16, 2006 at 4:48 am
Hank Sims
Yeah, Tigard — that shining city on a hill.
Tell me, do you dream of someday moving to Beaverton?
November 16, 2006 at 6:10 am
Eric V. Kirk
Cyg – Of course we do distinguish between NorCal and SoCal. But we’ve definitely got our problems.
And we have elected Arnold – twice. But then we defeated our version of Prop 37, barely.
Hank – Beaverton?
November 16, 2006 at 6:35 am
Hank Sims
Beaverton, the consummate Oregon hellhole, suburban variety. Tigard is its sub-suburb, and apparently the home of our esteemed correspondent.
November 16, 2006 at 6:40 am
Carson Park Ranger
Why is it that only bland, expansive, suburban development seems to be possible. It’s as if everyone looked down yonder at Los Angeles years ago and said, “yes, this is the best way to develop.”
November 16, 2006 at 7:09 am
Anonymous
“Why is it that only bland, expansive, suburban development seems to be possible. It’s as if everyone looked down yonder at Los Angeles years ago and said, “yes, this is the best way to develop.”"
Developers are the least creative people in the world. They only know how to crunch numbers. There’s only one way to do it in their mind.
November 16, 2006 at 9:40 pm
Anonymous
Anonymous said:
When Brian Morrissey’s architects made their presentation to the Eureka City Council, they bragged that they are famous for designing developments all along the I-5 corridor.
That isn’t “famous”, that is infamous.
Bragging by fools without taste: confirmation that they are idiots.
November 20, 2006 at 9:23 pm
Melanie Walker
When you consider that Portland is home to one of the most successful urban development programs in the nation, and is considered a model for other major cities, I don’t think you can rightfully compare it to other smaller cities in the state. There are some smaller towns, (Cannon Beach comes to mind) that have adopted similar rigid standards and have had great success in doing so.
Other towns/cities have to struggle economically and literally cannot afford the same restrictions imposed in Portland since the downside of the urban growth boundary is higher property value and higher taxes. A city like PDX can afford it. Cities like Medford cannot.
Further, I don’t think we’re any worse off than any other state when it comes to the conditions you describe in Medford.
November 20, 2006 at 10:29 pm
Eric V. Kirk
No problem with Portland’s development Mel. In fact, it may be the best planned city on the west coast with the dubious exception of San Francisco.
And we have plenty of badly planned towns and cities in California, Los Angeles being the king thereof.